War ships, war cries and wannabes

Aussies Jackie Parry and partner Noel head for San Diego in their new dream boat, Pyewacket.

With a charming mix of mega yachts and masquerading pirates on board seven-metre sailing ghettos, San Diego is like a melting pot. On the edge of America, with Mexico in sight, here lies the stepping-off point for cruisers. San Diego is not a cruising ground as such but a gateway to the Pacific Ocean.

Big industries here are manufacturing, military, ship repair and construction. Tourism plays its part, but as boaties there is enough to see of the watery-world type. The navy base is buzzing with activity almost every day. Roaring jets vibrate the boat as they launch into space,

on exercise, ready for battle. War roars of planes, ships and helicopters mix with the war cries from the AM/FM radio, provoking thoughts

of the terrifying world we now live in; a reason why we are here, on board a sailboat seeking what good is left in the planet.

Late in the season when we visited in our newly purchased Aleutian 51, Pyewacket, most cruisers were already in Mexico and beyond. But a few cruisers lurked, mainly small sailboats with no fixed agenda.

Where to stay

The famous cruiser’s jungle drums had beat information our way about a police dock, a place to tie up at a reasonable price. We were permitted a temporary stay at one of the four pump-out docks to await the inevitable departure of three boats the following day.

With an allowance of 10 days in every 40 and around $10 per night for the first five days and $20 for the second five days, this place is a bargain. Facilities are basic but usable. Later on we moved to the convenience of the Shelter Cove Marina.

Visitors

On board we had our own situation to deal with — visitors in the form of my parents. Welcoming us all into San Diego, CA (the sunshine state) were five storms in as many days that packed a punch. The surface analysis, downloaded from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, painted a sorry tale. Noel and I didn’t mind too much because we had plenty to do below, but my parents had escaped devastating snow that ground the UK to a halt, only to be met with violent storms that “never normally happen”.

The succession of lows finally abated and the glorious warm sunny days returned. Harmony was restored on board, shedding any remains of cabin fever. Through previous experience of hosting visitors we know that they prefer to be active. As we had a boat to prepare, that took the form of work. The Aries windvane needed a full service, new bearings and fitting. Noel and dad locked themselves into the workshop while mum and I tackled jobs such as making a dinghy cover, inspecting the anchor chain and supplying copious cups of tea.

Smorgasbord of fun

We did allow my folks some time off and San Diego offered a smorgasbord of fun. Point Loma lighthouse that watches over San Diego’s slice of ocean provides informative historical and technical data. It is a reminder of different times of sailing, welcoming sailors for 36 years from its conception in 1855. However, it was situated in the wrong position and fog and low clouds obscured the light, leading to its closure in 1891. Nearby is a fine monument to the 16th-century explorer Cabrillo, who stands proudly over the city.

The San Diego Boat Show gave us hopeless dreams. Discounts at chandleries, fascinating electric boats, fold-up dinghies and the US Coast Guard were just some of the exhibitors that captured our attention (as well as the free beer and chocolate). Sail and motor boats clamoured for favour in the marina. Visitors climbed on board, and we almost dribbled at the mouth-watering new boats.

Expensive

Initially, I couldn’t get excited about San Diego. The expense was crippling and there were few cruisers to discuss plans, potential hazards and procedures with. When mum and dad visit, we live like kings. They want the luxury of a holiday, so marinas and hire cars come via their extraordinary generosity.

Driving downtown the atmosphere tangibly changed in the confines of our metal box, going boringly the same direction as all the other, million or so, metal boxes. Cars rule here; if you want to survive, you must have a car. Square riggers, cruisers, ferries and the navy vessels ply the edge of the metropolis with fascinating regularity. The aircraft carrier Midway caught our eye. Her enormous structures shadow the city; we just had to take a look.

Viewing the navigation equipment, helm and engine room was our priority. I noted the thick pencil lines drawn on a chart, but didn’t think I ought to comment. As we weaved through the rabbit warren of low corridors (you wouldn’t want to be over 1.8m), the claustrophobic feeling was a surprise on a vessel so vast. I couldn’t help but wonder how many people went missing, simply because they were lost in the bowels. Ex-navy volunteers impart their experience of the ship’s operation and equipment. We spent a particularly long time chatting with an eloquent volunteer in the engine room. Below the waterline we inspected, touched, queried and were in awe of the four steam turbine engines, dials, operation and the bleak and positively dangerous working conditions these guys were subject to in times gone by.

The aircrafts on deck blasted into insignificance in comparative size to the vessel. At times there are more than 300 people working on the deck, managing the takeoff and landing. Standing on the deck-cum runway, you can sense a little of the danger, exhilaration and marvel of the abilities of the pilots, both in the flying and seagoing craft.

Preparations

Back to the reality of organising a wee sailboat for oceans, the next day we found ourselves driving on the four-lane freeway at 60 mph (“kilometres” mean nothing to Americans) peering through the mist of torrential rain, searching for bottles of gas and stainless-steel welding rods. Saying you want “gas” in a bottle in America, leads to a confusing conversation. “Gas” here is petrol. LPG is what we want to bottle.

Despite subtle differences, purchasing a foreign boat has been so much easier than we thought. The Australian Maritime Safety Authority has a great website for studying the intricacies of Australian registration. The registration office itself bent over backwards to aid our request to register Pyewacket II.

The forms are straightforward and all our queries were answered via email without delay.

Scripps

After our chores, we followed a recommendation and visit Scripps Institute of Oceanography, a remarkable place. Scripps is a centre of ocean and earth science research, education and public service. It claims to be the oldest, largest and most important centre for research in the world. It is also where you can adopt a fish. Alluring us was their fabulous library encompassing an enormous room that stores every conceivable navigation chart. These are our key navigation instruments. Purchasing more charts was on our to-do list and searching through the catalogues and actual charts was useful in making a decision of what, exactly, we needed. It also turned our thoughts from completing maintenance to doing miles.

We took some time out to visit the aquarium and re-acquaint ourselves with what lurks beneath us when we skim the service of the water world. The sea horses caught my eye, with their head like a horse, tail like a monkey and pouch like a kangaroo.

Extra for wifi

We were surprised that all the marinas charge extra for wifi. You pay for the convenience because libraries offer a free internet service. There are also public connections scattered about. Ironically laundries seem the best place to pick these up. The laundromat in town had a marvellous connection, which made washing day a positive delight. Back at the marina, I wondered around with the laptop open trying to find a connection. Eventually I gave up, until I had to do some laundry. In the marina laundry, armed with laptop to do some writing (can’t waste a moment!), I found that suddenly I had a connection. The laundry became my office, which was actually rather pleasant. A warm room, gentle humming of machines, clean smells and within just a few strides from Pyewacket.

More excursions

With the Aries installed, we found time for more excursions of the not-so-nautical nature. Armed with passports and visas, we drove across the border to Mexico to get a preview of the land we would be sailing past; the armed guards giving us no more than a cursory glance. Across the border you enter a different world. Immigrant hopefuls gather and the results are dramatic. Lacklustre towns adorned with shattered dreams and poor infrastructure. The town vibrates with sadness and criminal activity. We drove for one hour with the doors firmly locked; we were all keen to return. We celebrated with a sandwich and coffee and drove to the hills. The recent storms had turned the dusty brown into vibrant green. Breathtaking vistas and sweeping roads calmed our nerves. Gum trees fighting mistletoe disease, pepper trees and wattle made us think of home.

Time to scratch

Now back to just two, we are awaiting the original Australian registration documents that seem to be lost in the vortex of snail mail. It’s 80 degrees, peaceful and we have constant, free (public) wifi. Our days are slowly easing to a job a day. We’re ready to explore Mexico and let Pyewacket II stretch her legs. Now, so close to unbeaten paths, Mexico beckons.

FAMOUS ENCOUNTER

In the latter part of my parents’ stay we sought a marina for a short spell because of the convenience and opted for the Shelter Cove Marina. Noel and I returned to the boat one afternoon to find my parents chatting, unbeknown to them, to a celebrity — Dennis Connor of America’s Cup fame. He was the first man to unsuccessfully defend the cup, much to the delight of Alan Bond’s Australia II (skippered by John Bertrand) and Australia as a whole. Connor is currently spending time with ‘Challenged America’, an all-volunteer charitable program that provides adaptive sailing for adults and kids with disabilities. “Thanks for the memories,” Noel called out, as Connor eased BQuest from her slip.

USEFUL LINKS

San Diego Aircraft Carrier Museum

www.midway.org

Scripps Institute of Oceanography

www.sio.ucsd.edu

Point Loma Lighthouse

www.nps.gov/cabr/lighthouse.html