Time for Christmas

Hugh Nankivell says Christmas Island has a lot to offer cruisers, despite the distorted impression given in the national media.

Recently, I met a cruising couple in Fremantle who mentioned they had been advised by customs officials not to visit Christmas Island because the island was “under pressure”. As a part-time resident of the island, I feel it would be of value to let readers know the facts.

Distorted

Australian media reports create a thoroughly distorted impression. The combined area of the island is 135 sqkm, yet the immigration facilities which attract so much media attention occupy less than one square kilometre. I have no doubt the reports of over-crowding in these facilities are correct, and it is a concern to all, but this certainly does not reflect on the island as a whole. The entire population of residents (about 1,500) occupies a narrow strip of land facing Flying Fish Cove at the northeast tip of the island and on the escarpment overlooking it. Compared to other inhabited islands in the world, this must surely rate as one of the least populated. Twothirds of the island is protected by national park. When exploring the park, it is rare to see other people, so it always a good idea to let someone know where you are heading, and when you expect to get back.

Internationally, the island is renowned for its pristine rainforest, abundant wildlife, tropical birds, land-crabs, scuba diving, (very big) fish and whale-sharks. Due to the island’s isolation and relatively short period of human settlement, practically all of the endemic bird, crab and plant species have survived predation and competition from introduced species. The annual red crab migration is one of the world’s most amazing. David Attenborough has included Christmas Island in his list of top ten wildlife experiences.

The visitor experience is not one you will have to share with many others. For those who want to stay on land there are less than 80 beds available for short-term accommodation, and these need to be booked well in advance. (By comparison, the much geographically smaller Lord Howe Island, with a lower resident, population has a capacity of 400 beds for visitors.) Limits on numbers of visiting yachts are equally tight. Anchoring in Flying Fish Cove is prohibited to protect the coral and only five yacht moorings are provided. (There are some other moorings, which might be available by arrangement with the harbour master.)

Harmonious community

Christmas Island has a harmonious community, comprising 60 percent Chinese, 20 percent Malay and 20 percent European residents, with cultural traditions established dating back over 120 years, when the island’s rich phosphate deposits were discovered. Mining continues to be the economic mainstay. Mine sites exist outside the national park and there has been a long-running reafforestation program in old sites, now funded by a levy imposed on the current operations. Today, mining is permitted only in previously mined areas. This has been made possible by technological advances in extracting the phosphate.

The cove is the focus of all administration, community housing and industry. It is the port for loading of phosphate and unloading of cargo. It is where asylum-seekers are seen coming ashore from barges and being led into buses for the 17km trip to the detention centre. It has the yacht moorings, a recreational boat launching ramp and has some of the best waters for snorkellers. There are barbecues and gazebos, which are popular for families to relax at weekends, or to take in the sunsets after work. All the essential services for yachties, including visitor centre, post office, supermarket, shops, fuel, tavern, cafes, bike and scooter hire and mechanical repairs are within a comfortable walking distance.

Almost unnoticed

The arrival of Navy vessels with refugee boats in tow is routine and goes almost unnoticed by residents. Immigration activities represent a new source of employment and prosperity, but I think most people feel they could now do without it. Residents ensure nothing interferes with community life. Whether it is Chinese New Year celebrations, a Malay wedding, Anzac dawn service or fund-raising car-wash and sausage sizzle for the local soccer club, the landing of asylum-seekers is something the officials simply have to manage around whatever community or social activity is happening in the cove at the time. Visiting yachts should not be perturbed if there are “boat arrivals”.

Stopover

Located 190 miles south of Jakarta, Indonesia, about 1,700 miles north of Perth, Christmas Island will continue to be a stopover for yachts heading westward across the Indian Ocean, or north/south between South East Asia and Fremantle. I think it would be a mistake not to stop off and take the time to fully absorb the nature, history and cultures. There are so few places like this remaining.

When seeking reliable information about the island, it is best to start with the Christmas Island Tourism Association (CITA), with further enquiries about customs and quarantine direct to officials based on the island. Information for visiting yachts and all contact details are available on the CITA website, www.christmas.net.au.