South Australia - West

The first uncontested landing in Australia by Europeans was by Dutchman Willem Janszoon, captain of the Duyfken, who landed on Australia's north coast in 1606. But the continent’s south coast remained a mystery until 26 June 1627, when Captain Francois Thyssen aboard the Gulden Zeepaert (Golden Seahorse), with Peter Nuyts, Councillor of the Indies, became the first Europeans to see Australia’s southern seaboard. Why they came to be so far east is a mystery, probably bad weather had blown them off-course or a serious navigational error. Nevertheless, the ship charted the southern coast from Cape Leeuwin, discovered by the Dutch ship Leeuwin five years earlier, all the way to present-day Fowlers Bay, where they named two islands, St Francis and St Pieter, and named the region Nuyt’s Land. No one really knows what happened after that. Some believe they retraced their route and sailed on to Java. Others believe, with prevailing west winds, they kept sailing east in the hope they would see the coastline turn northward.

Nearly two hundred later, the first known vessel to sink in South Australian waters was the cutter from Matthew Flinders' Investigator in 1802. Eight men were lost, and Flinders named the headland Cape Catastrophe and the straits he named Thorny Passage. Just south of Thorny Passage with its violent tide rips, and with Cape Catastrophe in sight, lies Williams Island exposed to the great southern ocean.

Williams Island,
35°01.50'S ~ 135° 58.43'E
Shelter from SW through S to SE
We sheltered from 20/30 knots of SE. The bay a bit rocky-rolly but comfortable, sand bottom with weed. Numerous seal lions. Easy entry. A lighthouse exists on Williams Island.

Avoid Bay,
34°40.10' S ~ 135°20.20' E
Shelter from SSW through S to NE
Banyandah did not stop in this recognized stop when en-route to/from Coffin Bay. The anchorage is situated behind a reef that provides good shelter although we hear the swell can lick around the end making it a little uncomfortable. Plenty of rock in the area, so be sure of your position, night entry not recommended.

Coffin Bay,
Shelter from all directions
Coffin Bay, Port Douglas, Mt Dutton Bay and Kellidie Bay form one of the most attractive cruising areas in South Australia. Its entire southern coast is national park; its waters are sheltered, its fishing good and essential supplies are available. Jack and Jude travelled there by road before sailing Banyandah west from Port Lincoln.

We discovered only vessels with a draught of less than 1.5 metres are able to pass over the bar into the town anchorage, the rest need to work the tides or stay outside in Coffin Bay. As Banyandah was in transit, we did not motor the 20 miles against the wind through shallows to the town and stayed near the entrance at Point Sir Issac.

Facilities: The township of Coffin Bay has two general stores and a service station where most basic provisions can be bought, along with the famous Coffin Bay oysters. There is a Post Office and the Caravan Park has laundry facilities. Visitors are welcome at the Coffin Bay Yacht Club which is famous for good low cost meals.

Fuel is available at the main jetty tel 0428 854 020; water is also on tap at the yacht club jetty.

Pt Lincoln is about 45 km away by road. There is a regular bus service between it and Coffin Bay township.

Point Sir Issac, locally called Seasick Bay,
34°25.91'S ~ 135°12.66'E
We passed a pleasant night in the nook at Point Sir Issac, comfortable in 20 knot easterly winds. No facilities except a dirt road and launching ramp.

Pearson Island,
33°56.52'S ~ 134°16.05'E
Shelter from W through S to SE
An offshore adventure, two mainland islands bursting with wildlife facing the Great Australian Bight. Plenty of bull kelp and tape weed. A few white pointers too.

Elliston,
33°38.56'S ~ 134°53.03'E
Shelter from all winds, exposed to SW swell .
Warning: Dangerous entry, do not attempt without local knowledge and good conditions. Follow leads on jetty, but watch outflow doesn't set you onto rocks.

Best anchorage is in corner near town, sand bottom, although a few smaller boats anchor on the west side. Keep a weather eye open at all times, even in summer.

Alternative to Elliston -

Cape Finniss
33°37.37'S ~ 134°50.13'E
Shelter from SW through S to NE
Next to favourite surfing spot, dangerous entry close around shore break with plenty of submerged rocks, narrow passage leads into quiet cove. Sand and weed in 5 m. Dirt road access 5 km to town.

Alternative to Elliston

Waldergrave Island,
33°35.55'S ~ 134°48.35'E
Shelter from SW through S to E
Lovely anchorage. No contact with shore. Park next to mussel farm mother-ship.
Gain access from outside Little Waldergrave, no passage between. Locate farm buoys about 1/2 mile north of anchorage and pass inside next to island.

Scale Bay,
33°00.72'S ~ 134°11.42'E
Shelter from SW through S to NE
Sand and weed bottom but holding with admiralty very good even in 30 knots offshore. Jetty no longer there, watch out for stray piles in vicinity. A few houses but no facilities.

Streaky Bay,
32°47.50'S ~ 134°12.72'E
Shelter from all winds
A grand spot: Town close at hand, two supermarkets, a pub on foreshore, laundromat, plenty of history, and a landlocked bay with a choice of anchorages. The run from Point Bauer to Point Gibson is shallow, but steady, so follow the contour for your depth.

St Francis Island,
32°30.10'S ~ 133°17.85'E
Shelter from W through S to E
There's a lot of history at St Francis, it just hard to see. The first white man to record the southern shores of New Holland was Petre Nuyts aboard the Golden Seahorse who recorded St Francis Island in 1627. This pre-dates Abel Tasman.

On the island, which is totally devoid of trees, and yet chocker-block with mutton bird burrows, are two abandon farmhouses. Take care, and the coastal route to reach them, or risk destroying mutton bird habitat and breaking your leg.

Masillon Island,
32°33.76'S ~ 133°16.99'E
Shelter from S to E
A fisherman in Coffin Bay told us this was his favourite spot. But our first sight gave us the shivers. A deep narrow gully facing slightly north of west ends in a cliff face. Spectacular. Surge breaks both sides of the opening, but all is serene up near the cliff, even in 20 knot SE winds. Sand bottom with weed patches 12 metres deep. Numerous caves. After one comfortable night, we were away across the Great Australian Bight.

PLACES NOT VISITED
Info thanks to John of Desiree and other sources.

Ceduna,
32°07.48'S ~ 133°40.06'E
The most convenient anchorage to the town is just south of the jetty, but do not venture in too close as the area is rather shallow. There is a sailing club open on Wednesday and Friday nights for meals. Ceduna can supply all kinds of stores from a variety of shops. Mechanical work can be carried out. Diesel is rather a long way from the beach.
Yatala Channel is the passage for large ships using the port of Thevenard near Ceduna. It is well marked with port and starboard light beacons and is easily entered by night or day.
Waterwitch Channel offers smooth sailing in sheltered waters, but it is difficult to locate nondescript day beacons against a generally featureless background.

Port Eyre, Fowlers Bay,
32°00.00'S ~ 132°27.00'E
Shelter from SE to N through W
Good holding in 10m sand and weed with Point Fowler bearing 165° and the jetty bearing 284°.

Fowlers Bay is a small coastal town located approximately 912 kilometres (567 mi) northwest of Adelaide with a population of 125. Few supplies. Great fishing for Tommies, Squid, Snook, Garfish and Whiting. Dedicated fishers from all over Australia visit Fowlers Bay for the prized Mulloway that can reach up to 30 kg, frequently caught during the summer season.

Next Week >> WA South Coast

The second edition of Two's a Crew is now available at a reduced price. Australia Sailing Adventure, Banyandah follows Flinders wake around Australia. More info here.