Simply priceless

The Galapagos Islands may be one of the most iconic destinations in the world, but the cost of visiting has some cruisers rethinking whether to stop and explore them. Don and Agnes Reed investigate whether they are value for money.

We sighted the high volcanic peak early in the morning above the distant cloud bank and by late afternoon we were awe-inspired by the islands’ rugged beauty as we sailed closer.

The crater of the dormant volcano, its lava flows and ash fields were illuminated by the late-afternoon sun. Kicker Rock looked like an ancient guard, with its huge sharp finger pointing to the glorious sunset as we drank a wine to celebrate another successful landfall. Alongside we were entertained by frolicking sea lions, a small whale in the distance and thousands of birds swooping and diving for their evening meal.

Checking in

The word among the cruising community was that the best place to check in to the Galapagos Islands was Wreck Bay on the island of St Christobal, so that’s where we headed.

We dropped anchor among the 30 or so other yachts already in the harbour and were soon enjoying a whole night’s sleep after a slow but easy seven-day passage from the Perlas Islands, south of the Panama Canal. In the morning we were woken by heavy breathing and barking as the local sea lions came to inspect the new arrival. Soon Fernandez, the agent, came in a water taxi to welcome us as well and he cheerfully explained to us the clearing-in procedures for this port which he would help us with and the costs, in broken but comprehensible English. He had been recommended to us by other cruisers.

Four options

You can clear into Wreck Bay on San Christobal Island for up to 20 days and visit other islands and attractions using organised tours. The agent fee is US$100 and the port costs and fees approximately another $100 depending on your yacht’s tonnage (see text box with the calculations of fees). We were not charged park fees and understood we were only clearing for that harbour. We are not sure if you can then sail to another Galapagos port and clear in and pay again or if you must then leave Galapagos.

Another alternative was to apply for a cruising permit in advance and that allowed you to go the three ports only on three islands and this was around US$850 for 4 people. You still are not permitted to anchor anywhere else you like. You are cleared for Wreck Bay on San Christobal, Academy Bay on Santa Cruz Island and Villamil Bay on Isabella Island.

You contact Bolivia in Quito, Ecuador at naugala@hotmail.com and send a copy of all your passports and the ship’s papers, to arrange for this permit. If you wanted to cruise and anchor anywhere in the islands, you needed to go the next step up and pay for a full cruising permit, then you have a guide on board with you the whole time and you can, we understand, choose your own itinerary. The cost of this we heard was from $5,000 to $8,000 depending on the size of your vessel, number of people on board and the duration of your stay. You are obliged to feed and accommodate the guide on board.

You could also make a brief stop of 24 hours at no cost, to get needed food, fuel and water. The next leg to the Marquesas is 3000nm so it is prudent to be topped up with everything. You proceed to the Port Captain and explain your needs and intentions and he can also provide you with the tax-free fuel voucher.

Park rangers and the Ecuadorian navy and coast guard, patrol the islands and help the National Parks protect the wildlife and check yachts’ paperwork and move you on apparently, if you have not the correct permits. Considering the cost of a day out at Australia Zoo with the family would be around $150, a 20-day stop in the Galapagos Islands is a bargain. We were totally happy with just staying anchored in Wreck Bay and going to see the sights with the very well priced local tour operators and local taxi trucks.

Living in a zoo

Don and I had seen sea lions in Ireland and Scotland but just a couple and they were very wary of humans. Certainly the water was far too cold there to think of swimming with them but here, near the equator, the sea temperatures are mild. In Wreck Bay the sea lions are everywhere and come very close to the yachts and have no fear of humans. They are also apparently well fed with the prolific sea life that abounds around the islands so they had plenty of time to play and laze around. The sea lions like to sleep on the swim platforms of yachts and so catamarans with scoops get two!

The animals are so tame they turned all of us into wildlife photographers because we could get so close. Iguanas and the tortoises just gaze at you one metre away. The bird life was amazing and strange. The blue-footed-booby bird looked like he was wearing blue Nikes.

Low-cost excursions

The tourist industry is alive and well here and the Ecuadorian government and its national parks management have done a fantastic job of preserving this special piece of the world. It is a wonder they let yachts visit here at all, after the damage past sailors have done with the introduction of pests like rats, goats, cats and other unwanted species.

We went on a dive/snorkel trip out to Kicker Rock for the day and were able to bird watch along the rocky coast, then get close up and personal with the sea iguanas sunning on the black lava rocks and swimming around between the sea lions. The baby sea lions are like labrador pups, so playful and inquisitive. We were able to swim with them and they just are such fun. What an experience! Then we headed out to Kicker Rock, a huge granite monolith sticking out of the sea with hundreds of birds clinging to its steep cliffs, where we were given the opportunity to snorkel between the huge split in the rock, observe the colourful fish and coral on the wall. Excursions like this, were $30-45 per head. Wet suits are a good idea though because of the cold Humbolt current.

Another excursion that was popular with many of the cruising people in the bay was a three-day, two-night trip to two other islands for US$210 including accommodation and meals as well as excursions. This trip gave people the opportunity to climb a volcano, see penguins, land iguanas, flightless cormorant and maybe flamingoes, as well as visit the Darwin Centre at Academy Bay on Santa Cruz Island. Those that did this trip had a good time and considered it very good value.

Well managed national parks

Taxis in Galapagos are usually a dual-cab ute and they are very cheap to use. We could go on a three-hour tour of San Christobel for US$5 per person and see the volcanic lake and the Tortoise Rehabilitation Centre where they are breeding these giant animals to help preserve them. The park and the modern interpretive centre were all free. In town there was another free large information centre and from there, there were numerous marked trails and board walks to beaches and lookouts.

Café prices were also very reasonable. One could get a set menu lunch of soup, a cold drink and a hot meal for $2.50. if you followed the locals at lunch time and if you really lashed out a hamburger with the works and fries was US$4 in a café on the waterfront. A large bottle of local beer was $2.50 at the bar on the front where the yachties gathered to try their luck on the unfortunately slow internet.

We were able to restock with fresh vegetables at the market and, because most of it was shipped in from the mainland, the variety was good. The many small stores also helped us fill the few small spaces we found in the lockers and top up on supplies, used since Panama, at fair prices.

Even the tourist shops along the waterfront had well priced Galapagos theme T-shirts and souvenirs that included many interesting craft items from Ecuador. Shop keepers were happy and obliging.

There is a substantial population of very friendly honest people working mostly in the service and tourist industries, who realise the value of visitors and tourism — including the cruising yachts — and we certainly felt welcome.

Onward bound

From the Galapagos to the Marquesas is one of the longest passages for us of 3000nm and an expected passage time of 20-25 days. We were excited about cruising the Pacific Islands, especally French Polynesia which we had not been to before, on our way back to Australia.

HOW MUCH IT COSTS AT A GLANCE

Fees in Wreck Bay in US dollars 2009

Arrival clearance $0.023 x gross tonnage

Contamination control $5.77

Security $0.80

Radio freq use $13.45

Access channel $2

Anchorage non-commercial $2.48 x gross tonnage

Lights and Bouys $3 x gross tonnage

Departure clearance $10

Visas $15 each

Agent fee $100

* Please note Australian ships’ paper do not state your tonnage if below 20 tonnes, which causes problems in many instances.


References

Landfalls in Paradise, Cruising Guide to the Pacific, Earl Hinz and Jim Howard. University of Hawaii Press 5th Edition 2006.

South Pacific Anchorages, William Clay, Imray Laurie Norie and Wilson Ltd, UK publications 2001 (see updates on www.imray.com).

The Island That Changed the World, Galapagos. DVD by BBC, BBC National Geographic Channel, US co-productions, bbc.co.uk.