Sailing with the Treleavens: Miami Beach, Florida

Hi everyone, 

Our welcome to America is NOT. With threats of confiscation of our yacht or fines, we have to fill in forms of our visit to Cuba. How much did we spend? What currency did you use?  Why did we go to Cuba? What did we buy? Protesting that we are not American and not bound by their embargo seems not to matter. We are now boarded by three agents, they don’t remove their heavy black boots and gather up all our food, rum and cigars. A total of two boxes cigars, 5 bottles of Cuban rum, all our frozen non Cuban meat, fresh fruit and boxes of lime juice purchased in Cuba. In all our cruising we have never been subject to the removal of all our food that was only intended to be consumed on board. The next yacht after us was from England and they didn’t take their food so where’s the consistency in that. 

Since this, many Americans we have met are embarrassed by our treatment. First we where given a bottle of wine, then someone gave us his car while we went shopping for food and in Marathon Marina the owner shouted us a free dinner at the restaurant on our arrival. Key West was very nice and would have liked more time here but it was better we move on before we are offered Cuban cigars on the black market!!!!!!! 

Didn’t we just leave Cuba? No we didn’t, Cuba came here still speaking Spanish. Quite often no English is spoken so it’s a constant question “do you speak English”?    

Key West to Miami is a 140nm turquoise highway for us, follow the port and starboard markers, keep in sight the 42 bridges that link the Keys (over 100 islands) to your left and to your right is a shallow reef and beyond is the deep Gulf Stream. Known as the Hawk Channel we enjoy the relaxation of cruising along with no effort but at the same time mindful of the shallowness and fish traps everywhere. A moment’s distraction when a fishing boat runs over and snaps our new Williamson lure and Ian has a lot to say to the ignorant fisherman but of course it falls on deaf ears. 

Fishing is a main attraction here, why wouldn’t it be, it’s safe inside a very long reef and the sea a beautiful colour over sand. That is until this year when a lot of fish have died because of the bitterly cold season and a very cold current running from the Mexican Gulf. The sea grass has also died making it difficult for the local endangered Manatee. I saw my first one, spotted by Kevin who at first thought it to be a big piece of carpet floating. It was a huge fat thing but moved quite effortlessly. Not sure I want to see one while snorkeling but they are like an elephant and harmless.

Marathon is 45nm from Key West and a week stop over while the boys fit, fix and whatever it takes to keep us moving regardless of the cost. I know boats!!!! and Ian has been reading the West Marine catalogue for the past 2 years and this is his first real West Marine shop, hooray f… New Lifeline AGM (glass mat) batteries and LED light bulbs internally; will this solve all our problems? To date I have to concede yes. Next up is davits for a bigger new rigid inflatable dinghy and why not; we aren’t getting any younger, how easy is this now, why didn’t we do this sooner? 

Marathon is nothing special but a huge base for cruisers going nowhere; this is home for them. Inside the lagoon lined up like soldiers are mooring buoys, 220 of them filling this entire area. Surprisingly the water is clean as holding tanks are compulsory and pump outs come on request, so at least they have pollution under control. To the south is the longest bridge, 7miles, where the movie ‘True Lies’ was filmed. Remembering the car chase helicopter scene on the bridge, we hire a taxi to take us over and back at sunset, amazing.

Still in the Hawk Channel we get a weather window for a perfect day sail 90nm to Miami, suns out, sea temperature13degrees so no swimming. No Names Harbour on Key Biscayne and anchor for the night, not far from where President Nixon had a residence. Our first taste of the luxury, South Florida Coast, Palm trees tower above us, line the boulevard and a burger for lunch at the Ritz Carlton at 18US$. Coconut Grove Marina and then into the heart of Miami and after three bridges that we only just get under we anchor off Miami Beach in the canal not far from Star Island (as in famous). Just getting under the bridge means taking off our aerial and wind gear and timing the tide to it lowest point. Standard clearance for all bridges on the inland waterway is set at 65feet and with out our aerial and wind gear we come in at just over 64 feet, so it is very close.  We don’t intend to go in and out too often as it’s all too scary. 

Anchored just on the inside of Miami Beach we are quite at home, a view of the city, a park to walk the dogs in and a short walk to the fashionable street Lincoln Ave. Lined with stylish shops and top restaurants that leads to South Beach. A very lucky free anchor spot in the best part and as we are here for a few weeks waiting for our son Ian and daughter Janey to arrive, we don’t mind making this our home. The park in front of us is named Maurice Gibb Memorial as the Bees Gees lived close by and had their recording studio in the same street. Other famous people line the small keys around the canals. A very pleasant pastime is being nosy and cruising in our dinghy. 

Our plans to cross the Atlantic have changed and now Cape Finisterre is to be shipped back to the Mediterranean leaving on the 15th April on Dockwise Yacht Transport. We just motor on with all the other mega yachts, the water is pumped out and off she goes with rig still in place. Weather has been our main reason for the change, it’s been so different and unpredictable we think this is in our best interest.
 
Cheers Andrea and Ian

PS from Andrea:

They can destroy our cigars but they can’t take away my memory of such a beautifully assembled souvenir from Cuba that all we wanted was to have fun with.

The wooden box with its sliding lid stamped Cohiba is 8 x 8 inches, open and inside is a work of art. First you have a whiff of fresh tobacco and on removing the thin layer of wood that you keep moist to stop the cigars from drying out is a  beautifully tide bundle, with a yellow ribbon bow, 25 plump soft to touch cigars. Each one labeled with a black and white cheque band. Clip the end and enjoy.        

PS from Ian:

The disappointing aspect is that there is nothing on line to say we can’t bring these goods in to the USA. All rules are directed at USA citizens. It appears that this only happens at Key West where ex Cubans working for the Department of Homeland Security have a big chip on their shoulder. No other port in the USA does this to foreign visiting yachts and Key West is not consistent in its protection. They actually did not visit the yacht for 2 days after we arrived, plenty of time for us to hide everything if we thought it was illegal for non Americans to bring items in from Cuba for personal use.

USA policy on Cuba is a nonsense and the only people loosing are the Americans.

Ian and Andrea Treleaven
 
mobile +61 411 360 545   (please SMS if you wish to contact us)
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www.treleaven.com.au