Sailing in the majestic Spencer Gulf

Considered the 'hidden jewel' of South Australia, Michael Seamus Kildea, introduces us to the northern Spencer Gulf.

Sailing the upper Spencer Gulf is sheer delight. With a suitable breeze you can explore a variety of bays, harbours, creeks and ports. The region north of Whyalla and Port Germein is a spectacular showcase of sailing, an inland sea between vast mountain ranges on either side. It is the hidden jewel of South Australia, awaiting the cruising yachtsman.

We had decided to follow in the footsteps of Matthew Flinders to the top of Spencer Gulf, some 200 years later in our modern seagoing craft, with electronic gadgets that he could only look upon with astonishment. Upon reading Flinders log and chart of the area it is interesting to note that he called the area Spencer’s Gulph and on his chart noted it was part of New South Wales. Flinders had decided ”in honour of the respectable nobleman who presided at the board of admiralty when the voyage was planned and ship put into commission, I named it Spencer’s Gulph.”

Our crew consisted of myself, a deaf man with the sharpest eyes of the crew, and a man with one eye, who had the wit and humour to keep us entertained. Our departure point was EMU Bay on Kangaroo Island. Upon entering the Spencer Gulf after rounding West Cape, we decided that as we had an easterly breeze we would turn north-easterly and head toward Franklin Harbour on the western side of the Gulf. We carried our cruising chute throughout the night and around four in the afternoon we were able to catch the last of the high tide and enter Franklin Harbour. Local fishermen had advised us to beware the outgoing tide at the entrance of Franklin Harbour.

Franklin Harbour

Franklin Harbour is a beautiful shallow lagoon with enough depth for our 1.8 m draught yacht. The entrance is well marked by channel markers and even without the aid of an electronic chart you could make your way into the harbour with ease. Beware the obstruction near the tall 5 m entrance beacon and do not stray too far to starboard or you will find the sand and reef obstruction a nuisance. From the last channel marker you can steer directly towards the end of the jetty and if you wish you can anchor to starboard of the jetty in about 3 m of water. With our trusty admiralty anchor the holding is good in a bottom of sand and mud combined, which forms grey muddy slurry that clings to the anchor.

To the port side of the jetty is the entrance to the boat ramp which is well protected by a magnificent rock wall which the ancient Romans would be proud. At the entrance to the boat ramp you will find an area to tie up your tender, the area is well protected and out of the way. The fenders were made from old truck tyres.

In the early 1900’s Franklin Harbour was dredged so that large passenger and cargo vessels could enter and leave. It was an important port that allowed the pioneering and farming families of the district to obtain much-needed supplies. A visit to the local museum for the princely sum of two dollars will keep you entertained with the way life was conducted in years gone by with displays of household items, clothing, communication devices and telephone exchanges.

The town of Cowell sits on prime real estate overlooking the harbour, nestled on the plain, with Mount Olynthus in the background. It is a lovely site in the morning with the white town silos being a prominent feature and denoting the fact that we are in farming territory. The fishing in Franklin Harbour is excellent and you can have your choice of king george whiting, snook, squid and snapper.

After leaving Franklin Harbour at the top of the tide we headed in a northerly direction comparing Flinders chart and our modern hydrographic chart. We decided to take the recommended track on the hydrographic chart as it made life easy and avoided any dangers. On the eastern side of middle bank beware the wreck noted on the chart. With the fresh southerly we arrived off Whyalla and Port Germein after midnight and being new to the area we decided to seek shelter behind Ward Spit and anchored in about 10 feet of water beneath the keel. We found Ward Spit to be a useful promontory capable of anchorage on either side for protection from both northerlies and southerlies. Southeast of Ward Spit lies Cockle Spit where an annual cricket match is held on the sandy spit in march between the Whyalla and Port Pirie yacht clubs.

Radio stations

If travelling from Adelaide or Kangaroo Island the radio stations used primarily are VHF channel 80 and channel 21. As you move into the lower Spencer Gulf VHF channel 81 is used. In the upper Spencer Gulf region VHF channel 82 is used. On HF radio channel 2524 is monitored.

Sailing the upper Spencer Gulf north of Ward Spit you’re on a vast inland sea with mountain ranges on either side. White sandy beaches dot the area. The mountain ranges allow the wind to funnel up or down the Gulf. The channel markers are numerous and provide good direction. The mountain ranges provide an ever-changing kaleidoscope of colour throughout the day. Low lying cloud in the morning clears to provide a magnificent blue sky and patches of green and mauve on the mountains. We passed Fitzgerald Bay which looked like a nice anchorage in westerlies through to northerlies. We anchored for lunch in Blanche Harbour which was nicely protected from southeast through to northwest. Holiday houses are nestled in the background of a mountain range overlooking Blanche Harbour with a view to the ranges on the eastern side of the gulf. Yatala Harbour forms a shallow protected area from the rolling swells of the Gulf and is noted for its blue swimmer crabs. Port Paterson is a well protected and reasonably deep area in which to anchor and enjoy the views of the Flinders ranges.

With the tide in our favour and with a good southerly breeze we made our way past Flinders channel and up the narrow and at times curling channel to Port Augusta. Near the Thomas Playford power station, poles support power lines across the channel. They are reputed to be 165 feet above water level. It is easy to be lured into an optical illusion that your mast and your whole boat will be electrified. I am sure that we are not the only ones to have done a 360° penalty in an anxious moment. The locals tell us that the training vessel The One and All has no trouble getting under the power lines.

Upon telephoning the local council we were advised that we could tie up at the dock area near the town. We were greeted by some friendly local yachties who grabbed lines. The following day we were greeted by the commodore of the Port Augusta Yacht Club, Geoff Kohler, who offered us use of the shower in the yacht club which was a stone’s throw from our berth. He kindly gave us a tour of the yacht club and provided an entertaining history of the club which began back in the 1930s. The yacht club now sits upon prime waterfront real estate and has a magnificent view of the channel and the Flinders ranges. Geoff advised us that his parents were stalwarts of the club and that his father was commodore in the 1960s for about 10 years. His mother passed away recently and in a fine gesture of remembrance they have attached her handbag to the bar near the stool that was her favourite seat. In recent times the Port Augusta yacht club has been struggling and membership is down to about 40 members.                

We decided to follow the Spencer Gulf inland as far as it would go. In ancient times the sea preceded much further inland and formed part of an inland lake. The Gulf winds its way through the mangroves and becomes a winding creek. The Flinders ranges are spectacular colours of green, mauve and dark purple set against a sparkling pale blue sky with wild emus roaming amongst the grey saltbush countryside. We travelled further inland to get a closer look at Mount Brown which Flinders described as about three leagues from where they anchored.

The local Woolworths is near the dock area and if you need to fill up with diesel, the service station is also nearby. The local hotels are within walking distance. A good time to visit is in october and november before the weather becomes too hot.

Copper coast

When you decide to leave you can make good progress with the tide in your favour and a northerly breeze. Travelling further down the Gulf on the eastern side another point of interest is the newly constructed Wallaroo marina development. The Coopers ale house had built a new waterfront hotel overlooking the marina, complete with bar, dining facilities and a large patio and sundeck area with expansive views of the waterfront homes and yachts tied up snugly in their berths. You could treat yourself to a stay at the marina apartments adjacent to the Hotel. You can telephone the marina manager on 8823 3704 to make arrangements.

A trip to the top of Spencer Gulf will leave you with memories of a spectacular cruising area, which in some parts is akin to lake sailing amongst breathtaking mountain ranges. It is well worth the effort to see this unique and beautiful area.