Haul-out hints

Practical: Haulout

Nigel Ridgway shares some of the do's and don'ts he has come up with to make getting through the hard-times as stress-free as possible.

We all put the job off as long as possible. We may wait 15 months, 18 months or even up to two years but the inevitable comes along eventually. The boat just has to come out of the water for a bottom paint. Why do we put it off?

I guess because it's one of the dirtiest, messiest (not to mention expensive) jobs on the list of things to do. Not only that, we resent the job so much because we know that no one has come up with a decent, cheap, antifouling paint that will last five years, or more, and will not hurt the environment.

We used to be able to use TBT paints which did last considerably longer than the copper-based paints we use now, but TBT is a harmful, toxic chemical that takes years to break down. Indeed, recent findings in Perth's Swan River have shown traces of TBT on the riverbeds around all the yacht clubs.

Anyway, the boat still has to come out for bottom protection, so we book the lifters and wait for the day with all the enthusiasm of a visit to the dentist. Let's stop here and consider how to get the best out of this expensive exercise. To assist with helpful hints, I visited our local lifters in Mandurah, WA and asked for advice. This, in itself, was quite a surprise for Harry, our local man, as most yachties go ahead without giving the job much thought.

Of course, we are considering the DIY sailor in this article. Those fortunate yacht owners with deep pockets who can afford to get the yard to do all the work have no need to read on. Wouldn't that be nice? However, if you are like most of us, you know it's going to be a DIY activity.

Things to consider
Harry came up with a list of points to consider. No matter where in Australia you have your pride and joy is lifted, these considerations apply:

* Dive on your boat before it comes out so that you know what the underwater profile is like, where the sum log paddle-wheel is, the drive shaft details (is it a sail-drive?) the position of the rudder and/or skeg.
* What shape is the keel? Can it hold the weight of the boat out of the water? What's the draught?
* Take a look at the shape of the hull Ð does it have flat sections from stem to keel? Is it rounded or hard-chine? If you're not sure, or if you have a long forefoot, the lift operator will get you to tie the front slings back in case the boat slips. Have some lines ready so that you can tie-off on the sheet winch.
* A dive inspection will tell you the best place for the slings so that the lifter misses all the bits hanging under your vessel. Harry's rule of thumb is: front slings go just in front of the mast, rear slings go at the sheet winches near the helm.
* If you have a tall mast, your forestay may have to be removed (with the furler), or slackened off considerably. Sometimes it may be necessary to back your yacht into the lifters.
* Once the boat has been lifted clear of the water, the operator will judge the bottom shape Ð long keels and hard chines may not need to go into a yacht cradle, but round bilges and no chines should always be placed into a cradle.
* Always have the bottom pressure-cleaned as that will save lots of work and mess. Once that's done, the boat will be moved into the yard and put in a cradle or on stands.
* And, very importantly, don't be late for your lift! Yards are busy places and it really stuffs up the organisation if they are waiting for your yacht to turn up.

Skipper's viewpoint
They are some of the considerations from the yard's point of view. We can also make life easier by getting all our materials together before the big day. Things like paintrollers/ trays, brushes, antifouling, rags, masking tape, polish, thinners, scrapers, wire-brush, sandpaper and so on can be gathered up in advance. If you need anything extra, there will generally be a chandler nearby where you can purchase items on the spot.

Do's and don'ts
A couple of tips I've learned over the years are:

* If you need any professional tradesmen, tee them up well in advance. You might need some mechanical work done or a shipwright to repair a part of the hull. They are busy people Ð if you can book them well in advance, you will save hours (even days) hanging about (see High Seas, CH January 2008 Ð hilarious, but true!).
* An extension on the paint roller will save you getting lots of mess and paint splashes on yourself.
* You can keep a roller overnight by putting it in a bucket of water.
* Big hardware stores often have stuff you need for a big discount.
* At boat shows, you can sometimes purchase antifouling at a discount too.
* Check with the yard to see if they are happy for you to bring in your own tradespeople. There are insurance and safety issues the yard will need to okay.

Hardstand agreement
Most yards will get you to sign a contract Ð a hardstanding agreement. If you won't sign, then you won't be lifted. It will cover all the rules for your particular yard. Lastly, make sure you can pay your bill. Yards all have a no-cash, no-splash policy and you won't get your yacht re-launched unless you pay in full, or come to some agreement. Credit cards are usually acceptable.

Have fun. It's all part of the rich tapestry of boat ownership and you can forget about it again for at least another 12 months.

Safety considerations
To work on the topsides, it's much safer and more comfortable to set up planks and supports properly.

Have a good overlap on planks and maybe lash them together. A bucket on the end of the plank might warn you if you're about to walk off the end while you're enthusiastically painting or polishing.

Any scaffolding around the boat could do with a red rag on it so you don't walk into it.

Ladders: a long ladder that extends over the gunwale gives you something to hang onto as you climb up on deck. Lash the ladder well so it can't slip from under you. A good tip is to have an old doormat or towel at the bottom to wipe your feet on so you don't tread dirt on board.

Haul up bulky/heavy items - don't try to negotiate them with the ladder.

If antifouling close up, wear a facemask.