Focus on headsail furlers

Buying a furler might seem a simple task, but there are many factors to consider, writes Sharon Smallwood.

To furl or not to furl: that is the question, and like most aspects of cruising it’s one that sparks substantial debate. Ask a purist and he (or she) will doubtless eschew the virtues of hankedon sails, but take a dinghy-ride around any anchorage these days and you’ll find the majority of cruisers have chosen to furl. Why is this? Because (despite its faults), roller furling, like GPS, has revolutionised the way we sail.

Roller reefing

As the wind increases and a yacht becomes overpowered, the sail area has to be reduced or reefed. Before the introduction of furling headsails, this meant changing canvas. You clipped on, braved the foredeck and battled with an untamed beast otherwise known as the genoa, after which you celebrated by hoisting a slightly more manageable jib.

Roller reefing changed all this. A reefable furling headsail can be set, doused, reefed and tacked, all from the comfort of the cockpit. No need to don the wet-weather gear, no reams of billowing canvas to control and last but not least, a clutter-free deck. All of the above makes perfect sense for solo sailors and short-handed cruising couples; so what’s not to like? In a word: performance. As soon as that furling line takes its first wrap, the airfoil shape of the sail is changed.

You might think this is more of an issue for racers than cruisers (and to some degree you’d be right), but consider the following. When a furling sail is reefed it is asked to do the job of a smaller sail, which would usually be constructed from heavier-weight fabric. In a “worst-case scenario” (where the loads are too great), the partially furled sail can be stretched and thus permanently damaged.

Tacks, turns & sophisticated sails

Enter the sailmaker. Reefable headsails can now be constructed from highstrength fabrics with good shapeholding properties. Tricks of the trade include orienting panels to provide greater strength in areas that handle the loads when reefed.

Furling headsails often incorporate a padded foam luff to counteract the mechanical limitations of furlers, which tend to roll the ends of the sail faster (and somewhat tighter) than the main bulk. A foam luff encourages the sail to roll up smoothly and thereby maintain its shape. Modern foams that do not retain a “memory” are an additional help.

Theoretically, an efficient way to maximise sail shape is to lower the tack point through the use of appropriate length link plates, and/or flat/underdeck installations. However, as Michael Strong from strongRope points out: “Most cruising sailors want access under their furlers for anchors, etc, so the tack stays raised and sail shape when reefed is a part of that compromise”.

Other solutions include fully independent swivels for the tack and head of the sail. As Mitch Ranson of Almasts Australia explains: “When starting to furl, the head and tack initially don’t turn. The fullest part of the sail (usually the middle) rolls in first and the head and tack only follow when the sail draws them around. They are not forced to turn every time”.

A final tip comes from Harken’s Technical Manager, Grant Pellew: “Additional adjustments can be made by increasing or decreasing halyard tension and changing genoa car lead positions. After reefing, simply move the car forward so the sheet between the car and clew points to the middle of the luff”.

Design

Most modern furlers fit over an existing forestay. In simple terms, a furling system comprises multiple foils (extrusions) that join together to form a spar around which the sail furls. A lower drum drives the revolutions of the foil, and there is usually an upper swivel, which allows the foil to rotate independently of the halyard. The complete system typically involves a terminal (eg Sta-Lok) and toggles at the bottom and top.

Once assembled, the luff of the sail, or bolt-rope, is fed into the groove of the foil. The furling line coils around the drum and runs aft to the cockpit. Assuming correct installation, the drum and foil sections will turn freely around the stay and so furl the attached sail.

Time to change?

The ideal time to change or install a furler is during replacement of the standing rig. Even if your wire is not quite ready to retire, most manufacturers and many riggers, recommend installing the furler over a new stay to avoid potential dramas down the track. In the words of respected rigger David Lambourne: “A forestay inside a furler does not have the same lifespan as an exposed stay”. The added weight of a furling system coupled with flex from the motion at sea, has been known to accelerate the process of metal fatigue. Currently, one company includes a new stay as part of their kit (see buyers’ guide).

Furler features

Different manufacturers have their own solutions to the complexities of furlers, including types of bearings, extrusion shapes, methods of connectivity and more.

Extrusions can be circular or elliptical. Ellipses are aerodynamic and thus preferred for racing but circular extrusions boast 360-degree strength and roll the sail more evenly. Some extrusions are manufactured with twin luff grooves for flying two headsails wing on wing.

Materials vary but common choices include cast or machined aluminium, injection-moulded plastic and stainless steel. Ball bearings are generally made from stainless steel or Torlon (a type of plastic also used in highperformance blocks). Stainless bearings are obviously strong, but require lubrication to avoid  brasion. Torlon bearings don’t need to be lubricated or sealed, but they can distort under perpetual loads. This can be counteracted with bearing races that spread the loads more evenly among a maximum number of balls.

Drum diameter is another variable between brands. Broadly speaking, a larger drum gives more leverage, which lessens the load on the furling line.

Installation

Proper installation is, in many ways, the key to a furler’s success. Opinion is divided on whether to DIY or not. Most well known furlers come with very detailed manuals, which, if studied correctly, allow them to be assembled by, “almost anyone”, says David Lambourne. However, David also says: “As with anything, all brands have advantages and disadvantages and riggers that know the good and bad points will be able to work towards prevention of failures. For this reason a professional rigger might be required”.

Gear failure & mechanical flaws

Major manufacturers have introduced improvements over the years to essentially make furler engineering safer. Advancements in bearings, fasteners and foils have lead to increased reliability, while re-designs in drums and swivels have produced longer lasting and more efficient models.

Today’s breakages are usually as a result of faulty installation or improper use. Well-known causes of furler failure include halyard wrap, loose foil sections, jammed drums and/or furling lines, and problems with bearings. In David Lambourne’s experience, poor halyard geometry is the most common culprit. “It is imperative that the hoist of the sail is correct and that the recommendations in the assembly and installation manuals are followed with precision. This requires your sailmaker to be informed as well,” David said.

Halyard wrap can cause the furler to stick, or worse, break the stay and lead to a dismasting. It often occurs when the topmost swivel is positioned too low on the foil shaft. In this situation, the addition of a pendant (cut to the appropriate length) is an easy fix that raises the swivel to the top. Ideally the swivel should sit close to the halyard’s exit sheave (or block) and only a short section of halyard should be exposed. Some manufacturers make additional halyard restrainers or wrap preventers and there is currently one model with a return halyard design (see buyers’ guide).

In order to wind correctly (and not pile up on itself) the furling line needs to exit the drum at an angle of ninety degrees. This is achieved by tweaking the position of the lead block, which is usually mounted on either the bow pulpit or a forward stanchion. Placing the lead block a reasonable distance aft holds the line perpendicular as it winds up and down. If the furling line contacts any part of the drum it could chafe through. Line size should be specified by the supplier and not exceeded. Larger line may be easier to handle but if it’s oversize it’s also more likely to fill the drum and get stuck.

Any difficulties in setting or dousing the sail could indicate a problem. It is universally agreed that the worst thing you can do is to force your furler by cranking it on a winch.

Maintenance

Nowadays the majority of furlers are advertised as maintenance-free, but ease of inspection should still be an important feature of any brand you buy. Given its position on just about the wettest part of the deck, a headsail furler’s exposure to the elements need not be underestimated. Even a maintenancefree model stands to benefit from a freshwater rinse now and then, to remove accumulated deposits of salt.

Galvanic corrosion, caused by the use of dissimilar metals, is a common concern. Many furlers contain aluminium foil sections and bearing holders, fastened with stainless-steel screws or rivets. Preventing galvanic corrosion involves isolating the two metals through the use of a barrier, such as anti-corrosive/adhesive compounds like Tef-Gel, Loctite or Duralac.

Maintenance of ball bearings in swivels and drums depends on their makeup and whether the races are open or sealed. Stainless balls in an open race require periodic cleaning and fresh applications of bearing grease. Conversely Torlon bearings can actually be damaged by wet lubricants, which tend to attract grit.

If maintenance is necessary, its frequency will depend on where and how often you sail. For tropical tradewind cruising think once a year or more. The sail should be periodically removed to check the foil (particularly fastenings and joints) and ensure there isn’t excessive movement in the top swivel and bearing. On many systems the drum must be lifted to inspect the turnbuckle. On some models this is easier said than done.

Ordinary use

It is sensible to ensure the furling line is free of obstacles right back to the cockpit before each use. Keeping tension on the line and sheets as the sail unfurls minimises flogging. When furling the sail at the end of a passage, take a few extra turns to prevent accidental unrolling at anchor (or on the dock). Some units are equipped with a drum brake for extra safety. Alternatively a short lanyard is a good backup. In the event that particularly strong winds are expected (such as a cyclone) furling sails should be removed from the stay altogether.

Electric & hydraulic power

For simplicity’s sake many cruisers opt to control the furling system manually, but on boats where the loads are higher (typically larger yachts), or in situations where the crew needs physical help, this is not always possible. Electric or hydraulic motors are an excellent solution and can often be retro-fitted to existing manual models. These drives characteristically use a lot of power so battery cables may need beefing up to compensate. Fortunately the extra load is very brief; therefore motorised furlers don’t really contribute much to overall electrical demands.

Market overview

Profurl is a worldwide company with service (should you need it) in all but the most distant places. There are cruising and racing systems for boats from 5 to 26m, as well as electric and hydraulic furlers to choose from.

Available from: Wichard Pacific Pty Ltd
Ph: 1800 639 767/02 9516 0677
www.profurl.com

From Selden Mast (the world’s largest mast manufacturer) comes the popular Furlex, available in standard, throughdeck, electric and hydraulic forms. Selden has a global network of more than 700 dealers providing service worldwide.

Available from: Contender Sailcloth Pty
Ph: 02 9997 4099
www.contender.com.au

Facnor furlers include the LS range (essentially for cruising), the LX range (similar to LS, but with a modified drum, rotating tack and pre-feeder), the R series (elliptical aerodynamic sections), RC series (using the same sections as the R, but with a continuous line drum and very low tack point), and the FD (flat deck) series. LS, LX and R models are suited to electrification.

Available from: strongRope
Ph: 0405 406 309
www.strongrope.com

Reckmann provides a comprehensive range of roller reefing systems for sailing vessels from 10m to megayachts. Choose from manual, electric or hydraulic versions as well as speciality code zero and carbon systems.

Available from: Riggtech.
Ph: 02 9997 8100
www.riggtech.com.au

Plastimo manufactures the 1012 T & 1213 T furlers for boats from 10 to 13m.

Available from: RFD Australia
Ph: 1800 646 086/02 9330 7098
www.rfd.com.au

Harken’s choice of furlers includes a cruising range, designed for longevity and easy use.

Available from: Harken Australia Pty Ltd
Ph: 02 8978 8666
www.harken.com.au

Hutton-Arco’s 3200 and 4800 furlers are available in manual, electric and hydraulic options. The company only manufactures torque tube models, meaning the furler covers the rigging screw and gives full sail furling.

Available from: Hutton-Arco Winches
Ph: 02 9623 2448
www.arco-winches.com

The Reefit system is designed and made in Australia. Units are currently produced in two sizes to suit yachts from 9 to 17m.

Available from: Almasts Australia Pty Ltd,
Ph: 1800 806 721
www.almasts.com.au

From humble beginnings on the Gold Coast (and now manufactured in the Whitsundays), the Reefurl is a 100-percent Australian product, originally designed by Rogin Taylor for his own catamaran in 1985. The system uses a return halyard to eliminate the possibility of jamming or wrapping at the masthead. There is also a Reefurl for trailer-sailers that sells as a complete system for $695, delivered price.

Available from: Reefurl
Ph: 07 4947 3366
www.furlings.com

Price

The range of furlers you can choose from usually depends on factors such as forestay dimensions (determined by your yacht’s righting moment, derived from several of its vital statistics). The cost of a furler varies accordingly. Most manufacturers have some sort of size/cost guide on their website and are happy to provide pricing on application.

For the purposes of our buyers’ guide I picked a sample yacht (in this case my own), and asked each of the participating manufacturers for a quote. Brilliant II measures 13.36m LOA, with a forestay length of 16.9m in 3/8-inch diameter wire.

Overall price depends very much on what is included in the kit.