Cruising the Whitsundays - the things you wished you'd known

Cruising The Whitsundays

You're off to experience the magic of the Whitsundays for yourself. What do you need? How different is sailing in the tropics? Sail there in your own boa, or maximise your holiday time with a bareboat charter? Like any sailing trip there's a lot to consider.

When to go?
The peak season is winter. Warm weather, boisterous tradewind sailing and clear skies. Shoulder seasons can offer wonderful weather without the crowds, but the summer cyclone season is a lottery.

Summer weather can be perfect but hot, so if humidity's not your thing aim for the cooler months.

That's fine for charterers, but to cruise the Whitsundays in your own boat means factoring in the time to sail there and return home. Even from Brisbane it's 10-12 days sailing to Mackay, a supply point at the southern end of the Whitsundays. You will strike adverse weather at some stage and you'll get tired and need a break. But mostly you'll get more from the trip if you allow time to enjoy places along the way.

The winter cruising season is also when the military conducts training exercises restricting transit of the Shoalwater Bay area, north of Rockhampton. Be prepared for an overnight sail outside the military zone or for an unscheduled wait in the Keppel Bay area.

Unrealistic passage plans and returning south too early are common mistakes of first-timers. The weather along the Queensland coast is basically southeast from May to October, so try to schedule your return trip for October/November or later.

Trailer-sailing allows swift and predictable "passage-making" and the possibility of a one-way trip. You could launch in Mackay and sail downwind to Bowen, covering the entire Whitsundays. Regular long-haul buses will bring a driver back to collect the car and trailer.

Preparing the boat
It goes without saying that any boat undertaking coastal passages should be equipped and crewed adequately. A good reference is the offshore racing requirements in the Yachting Association rule book (aka the Blue Book), available from Boat Books for around $30.

Interstate skippers should be aware of Queensland's pollution, registration and pending licensing regulations, as well as marine park zoning areas.

In addition to the usual seaworthiness requirements there are many ways to make tropical cruising more comfortable.

Shade

Shade is essential for tropical cruising. Most charter boats have a bimini over the cockpit. On Talisman I use a removable awning to shade the cockpit when sailing. An awning over the main cabin is handy at anchor in warmer weather.

Anchoring

Despite recommendations not to anchor over coral, in the Whitsundays you'll often anchor on a sandy/corally bottom. Because corals can chafe through anchor lines, it's preferable to use an all-chain rode. Thirty to 40m of chain is ideal, but impractical for lighter boats. Twenty-five metres is a minimum, attached to another 30m of rope. While you might aim to anchor in six to eight metres of water, it's not always possible, and you need enough scope to cope with the savage wind gusts frequently encountered.

Use at least five times the depth at high tide. Don't overdo it Ð boats taking more than their share of swinging room are unpopular.

The danger of short chains is in lulls or at the turn of the tide. The chain slackens and drops to the bottom, taking the rope down to tangle among the coral. After a few gusts the rope chafes through. One way to counter this is to attach a fender or float to the anchor line to keep it off the bottom. It's a messy solution, which isn't required with adequate chain.

The anchor should be a type which holds well in loose sand and can penetrate a hard bottom. This rules out the Danforth commonly found on trailer-sailers. The plough type is the most common anchor in the Whitsundays, although the newer Manson Supreme, Sarca and similar anchors have outstripped its performance in controlled testing. The once favoured Bruce anchor tends to skate along a firm surface, and I prefer not to use mine in this area.

To handle this serious ground tackle you may need to consider fitting an anchor winch. Visualise hauling up the anchor and 30m of chain at night, in a 30-knot squall, with another boat dragging down on you. Manual and electric winches both have their champions, manual being cheaper, lighter and less prone to malfunction. On the other hand the electric option saves a lot of effort.

Back-up anchors and rodes are essential, not only to guard against the possibility of losing one, but you may need to use two. Trailer-sailers should have at least one stern anchor as well.

Whitsunday anchorages can be crowded but observing anchoring etiquette goes a long way towards avoiding unpleasant confrontations. The basic rule is to anchor clear of other boats. If your new neighbour objects to your proximity, the right action is usually for the newcomer to shift farther away.

Bareboat skippers will find that private boats assume inexperience, because this is often the case.

Rolling at anchor is a fact of life in some of the most interesting anchorages. The extent you are affected depends on the type and size of boat, but it can pay to schedule a return to calmer spots every few days to counter the fatigue that builds after a few nights of restless sleep.

Dinghy

The Whitsundays is dinghy-crunching country. Choose between a tough boat that can be anchored on rocks and coral, or a light one you can carry clear of nasties. It must be capable of handling boisterous conditions and equipped with decent oars in case of outboard problems. Many inflatables in this area have large flip-down wheels fitted to the transom to allow hauling up a beach.

Navigation

The Whitsundays is an area of strong tides, which rise towards the south and ebb northwards. Even bigger boats should plan to move with the tide. Sailing across the main channels you'll need to factor tidal flow into your course. Don't simply steer towards a fixed point or the tide will set you way off track.

At a minimum you should know how to plot a course allowing for tidal set. Back-bearings and GPS are helpful, too. If you're chartering, check if your bareboat has a GPS and if not bring your hand-held along.

Wind-against-tide conditions can kick up a nasty sea. Often a smoother passage can be made by travelling at slack water, or when wind and tide are together, even if that means pushing the tide.

You'll need paper charts, preferably up-to-date ones. Relying on a GPS plotter recently helped one boat to hit rocks not shown on the plotter, but clearly marked on paper charts.

Handling the conditions

The winter tradewind blows hard throughout the Whitsundays. The difference between uncomfortable and frightening sailing and taking conditions in your stride lies in your ability to shorten sail. Efficient reefing systems, small headsails and familiarity with using them add to the enjoyment of sailing in this area.

The crew

While most items that make for comfortable troFor distinguishing coral heads (bommies), shallow water and weed patches a pair of polarised sunglasses is invaluable, reducing glare and reflections and allowing much clearer vision into the water than conventional sunnies.

An inconvenient fact not mentioned in the brochures is that the weather is not always perfect. No problem for liveaboards who can fill down time with chores and hobbies, but holiday cruisers need something to do while waiting out the weather. Bring books, toys, videos, whatever you favour to ward off occasional boredom.

Seasickness can affect any sailing holiday. Although most hops in the Whitsundays are short, I'd suggest potential sufferers try their medication before their trip. Some seasick pills can cause unwanted side effects like drowsiness, dry mouth, headaches and constipation.

If you're sailing during the stinger season, October/November to May/June, bring a stinger suit to swim in. Although stings are rare, they are potentially fatal, and stingers have been recorded at all times of the year. Mesh suits are available at chemists in the area, while the UV-protective lycra "rashee" suits, available at sports stores, are a handy year-round alternative to a light wetsuit.

Have realistic expectations
Go prepared to sail in strong winds, maybe have a few rolly nights at anchor, and some inclement weather. You'll still have a great time, and if the elements turn on picture-perfect weather for your stay, you'll love it all the more.